by Noemi Szoke [March 9, 2015]
From classic to extravagant, from wearable to spectacular, London Fashion Week is always a world of stark contrasts that never ceases to surprise us.
The perfection of David Koma’s autumn/winter 2015 collection is definitely an echo of the fact that the designer is the creative director at Thierry Mugler. David Koma presented a collection inspired by 60’s fashion, relying on statement elements like straight miniskirts and flounced sleeves, specific to the period. The mix of nude fabrics, black leather, lace and sequins give the collection a sexy, yet sophisticated, flair. Black and nude are the predominant shades, with a few surprise appearances of blue leather and orange lace macramé.
“Vote green!” is the British designer’s message, as seen in her show on the third day of London Fashion Week. Vivienne Westwood is known for her anti-consumerism actions, but also for the way in which she uses the podium as a platform to promote political and cultural messages. Over the knee socks with the message “Change”, clutches with the “Get A Life” slogan and necklaces inscribed with “Art Lovers United”, are just some of the statement accessories that urge us to take a stand. The collection is a complete definition of the Westwood woman – tiger print elements, alongside pink sequins and lace, symbolize her wild side; tweed and tartan support her sophisticated side; and velvet and silk dresses are her statement of sensuality.
For autumn/winter 2015 Christopher Bailey, chief creative officer of Burberry Prorsum, has created an exotic, bohemian collection, inspired by the hippie fashion of the 60’s. In the spirit of “Summer of Love”, multicolored embroideries, floral prints and fringes dominated the runway. Dark greenish, blue, brown, olive and magenta hues are seen combined in vibrantly colored prints. The statement pieces of the collection are fringed ponchos and trench coats, mosaic motif blouses, heavily embroidered vests and folk-inspired dresses. The Burberry must-have item for next season is long, over the knee boots, made of suede patches in earthy colors.
Mary Katrantzou combined contrasting elements – Victorian excess versus modern simplicity – and delighted us with a collection rich in colors and prints. The designer of Greek origin has created a mix of Victorian inspired elements such as opulent embroideries, precious bourgeois fabrics and excess ruffles, with modern minimalism, characterized by simplicity. Mary Katrantzou is known for colorful creations and innovative methods which she uses to reinvent the traditional side of things. The catwalk was covered with a pink foam material, which was also present on the clutches and belts in the collection.
The Mulberry collection is inspired by British homes of the 1714 – 1830 period, known as the Georgian era. The remarkable 3D Rococo embroideries and the neoclassical style were inspired by the impressive interiors of the bourgeois UK houses. Every detail is feminine and sophisticated in the specific Mulberry style. Nude tones and dark colors are predominant, with a few statement pieces in peach shades. The must have accessories are the bags presented on the runway: the Jamie bag, addressed to the woman with a casual-cool style and the Roxette bag, for the elegant and demanding Mulberry woman.
Paul Smith’s vision to create classic, elegant and wearable elements certainly comes true in this collection. For autumn/winter 2015-16 the designer focused on comfort: ¾ coats, flared trousers, oversized sweaters and masculine shoes are all must have items in the daily wardrobe of every woman. Predominantly presented in dark shades, with scarves and silk shirts printed in bold colors, the collection followed a loungewear theme, joining oversized shirts with flared silk pants.
Mixing flexible fabrics, latex and leather, Julien Macdonald’s autumn/winter 2015-16 collection stands on the border of glamour and Goth. Although the predominant color is black, intense colors of precious gems – ruby red, sapphire blue and emerald green – make their appearance too. The silk, velvet and lace outfits are accessorized with long leather gloves, stiletto shoes and choker necklaces, flawlessly defining the Macdonald woman: sexy, but refined, elegant, but bold, sophisticated, yet powerful.
In the autumn/winter 2015 collection, Topshop shows influences of the 70’s. The focus is on wearable luxury: the collection is addressed to young British women, who adopt a style of comfortable, everyday chic. The concept behind each piece is the reintegration of luxury in casual clothing pieces. This explains the impressive details in the collection, as sweaters are decorated with floral prints and mini dresses are embroidered with gold sequins. Flared trousers, miniskirts and oversized, ecological fur coats, are the basic elements for the upcoming cold season.