[by Daiane F. | October 6, 2014]
For everybody watching the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2014-15 show, on-site or from the other side of a screen, the experience must have been that of cautious anticipation.
In what was his first show at the helm of Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière managed to offer all of us an unforgettable ride. A ride that, even though a far cry from the elaborate shows that his predecessor, Marc Jacobs, got us accustomed to, was still powerful and expressive.
When Freja Beha Erichsen, the first model to come out on the catwalk, appeared in a mod-style mini and an exquisite leather coat, she chased away everyone’s doubts. In his debut collection, Ghesquière was true to himself while also reinventing the aesthetic we used to associate with the brand. And that’s no easy feat.
The show went on to reveal a 48-look collection inspired by the infamous era of the 60s and 70s when miniskirts, A-line dresses and Chelsea boots were the norm. Somehow, Ghesquière picks up where Jacobs left off: a love for the 60s is the only thing that likens the two designers’ styles.
Ghesquière’s clothes were good. Painfully good. With no hidden artifices and no ambitions to radically transform the way women dress, he showed us the way to a new aesthetic. The color palette was chosen among the darker shades of the spectrum: dark orange, brown, black and ocher were regulars. As for many of the looks, most were carefully constructed ensembles with a mixture of textures and colors that only a genius like Ghesquière could safely pull off.
The mix of high and low boots, leather jackets, skirts and skinnies, skillfully tied leather belts, clever juxtaposition of ski sweaters, A-line minis, and impeccably tailored coats were excellent choices to convey the fresh approach. Of course, the collection included many references to the house’s leather goods tradition – from the fur and leather pieces to the smart belts and bags.
Everything came across as effortlessly natural and, as the designer himself confessed, in line with what women actually want to wear. Lots of individually good pieces, which work (particularly) when they are mixed and matched: well-designed clothes must be ready to be taken off the runway and worn. We are witnessing the start of a new Louis Vuitton era. A Ghesquière era.
Watch the full show here: Louis Vuitton | Fall/Winter 2014-15 | Paris